Camino de Santiago - finished!

Just to let everyone know that I reached Santiago de Compostela, or more accurately the cathedral at about 09:30 yesterday morning. 

Since then I have been pottering around, simply enjoying the energy of the place and the massive sense of positivity that is ever present. Much time for reflection. 

And I've been eating 'some' ice cream!!

In bare figures, it took me just over 12 days to travel just under 800km (500 miles). I covered between 54-72km/day, averaging around 63km/day. Including sight seeing, chatting and food rests, I was out for 8.5-12 hours daily. 

However, this was never about time, distance or numbers. Yes, of course it was a big physical challenge, but that was not the primary reason for doing the Camino de Santiago. It is a pilgrimage and it has been has been a pilgrimage for me. I have had many, many very special experiences, encounters, and conversations.  Many moments of sheer wonder. It has been a remarkable experience - one that I will cherish for the rest of my life.  

Now I am looking forward to getting home tomorrow.  

I will fill in the gaps in my daily updates on my return and will upload photos. When I've got myself suitably recovered, I will put some thoughts and conclusions together. 

Thanks to everyone who has followed my adventure and sent encouragement - always greatly appreciated. 

Camino de Santiago Monday 25th May: Day 13

A Rua – Santiago de Compostela

21km, total time on the way 3:30

Woke in a pool of sweat. Body is really breaking down and all the waste products are fighting to get out. Left at 06:00 chomping my standard breakfast on the go. My calf wasn’t quite as sore as yesterday morning and I was able to walk  properly quite quickly. It was also a lot warmer than yesterday morning.

Start thinking about my journey. The start in St Jean Pied de Port seems so long ago but also seems only like yesterday. What an amazing adventure. More than I ever expected, more than I could have ever hoped for

The kilometers roll by. At the 10km marker I begin to feel excited, and start singing to myself like a little boy. But the next few kilometers seem to pass so slowly and my calf is stiffening up.

Through the outskirts of Santiago and into the old part of the city. I arrive at what I think is the entrance to the cathedral….but it’s actually the back. Round 2 more corners to the main entrance. All but the top of one tower is under wraps for renovation, and the classic entrance is closed.

Finally find the entrance on the 4^th and final side.

 

It’s all a bit underwhelming. 

There’s lots of noise, too many people. More than ever, I truly comprehend that it’s the journey that is so important. The sights, the people, those moments of utter bliss and understanding. The birdsong.

I go into the cathedral but I’m told to leave as I’ve got my rucksack on!

Deposited my rucksack at left luggage (for 2€) and decided to get my compostela. There’s a long queue despite the relatively early hour. Some are excited, some quiet and lost in their own thoughts. Meet Nilton from Brazil again.

I ask nicely and smile sweetly, and get my compostela dated on my birthday.

Next challenge…find a hotel. Parador is very expensive. Everywhere else seems to be booked up. One lady say “Oh yes. I have a lovely room for you. Internet, living room, bathroom, kitchen” It’s a really grotty room with all facilities shared. I leave.

I come up with a cunning plan. I’ll walk a further 10km towards Finisterre where there is a recommended albergue. Grabbing some lunch, I set off with my newly purchased guide. After 2-3km, my calves are intolerably painful. I turn round, walk back to Santiago and book into the Parador!!

At last I started to relax a little and very nearly fell asleep in the bath.

I wandered around Santiago a bit more, had an ice cream, and met 3 other people that I met on my journey. What are the odds of that?

Had a walk around the cathedral which was much quieter now. Peaceful and moving. Visited the tomb of the apostle St James. There is a real sense of reverence and something feels very special. Find prayers being held in English just as they are finishing. Lovely chat with a very Irish priest – Father Joe. In my diary for tomorrow.

Nice seafood dinner, followed by another ice cream and some chocolate. Saw Nilton again.

Missing home/Jenny a lot this evening. Decide to move my flight forward from Friday to Wednesday. Will be home for my birthday.

Tomorrow will be a chance to take time and get my thoughts together. Camino Companions at 9, Pilgrim Mass at 12, prayers at 6. Plenty of time to reflect.

The journey is over for now and it was the journey that was so special, so meaningful.

Camino de Santiago Sunday 24th May: Day 12

Ventas – A Rua

58.6km, total time on the way 11:15hrs

If yesterday was tough, then today was…well, tougher.

Rubbish sleep. Really restless and sweaty, and aware of my calf stiffening up all night. Had half planned to get going at 5am but quite honestly couldn’t be bothered and also, in my heart of hearts, I knew that 80km just wasn’t going to happen.

After massive taping of feet, I left at 06:00, eating an omelette bocadillos as I went.

From the outset, my left calf/soleus was incredibly painful and I was barely able to walk. I was close to tears. I couldn’t see how I could possibly get to Santiago and I just wanted to sit down.

There were none of the usual Camino waymarks for a bit and I passed through a village not on the map. I became increasingly concerned that I’d gone the wrong way – and, with the pain no better, I was beginning to panic. I dropped a glove – retrieval was a further black spot.

Reassuringly, I reached Ligonde, which was on the map. I stopped for a coffee and some toast. I was so hungry and so very tired. I was finding it really hard to get warm – I had 5 layers on my upper body and for the first time on the entire Camino, I had put on my running tights. Really miserable. I prayed for strength.

After 1.5 hours, my calf finally began to loosen and I could at least walk properly now. I even managed a mini-jog. “I will reach Santiago de Compostela. I will complete my pilgrimage”.

I reached Palais de Rei. Lots of pilgrims were starting their day here. I visited the church and cried…a lot. Today was going to be an emotional day.

Started chatting to anybody and everybody. Couple from Uraguay – a new country on my Camino list of nations. Realised 3 hours had passed now…relentless forward motion.

Entertaining chat with 2 Irish guys. The Irish are always a good laugh. They christened me “The Camino King of Lincoln Green” but pointed out that “Queen” would have fitted better!!

One can often tell someone’s nationality from a few murmurs before you can actually hear the words.

Passed a Mum pushing her toddler, who high-5’d me, in a buggy. They had started in Portomarin. Definitely the youngest pilgrim I had met on my travels.

Realised that I seemed to be having so many meetings and occurrences this morning, all of which were serving to lift my spirit. My strength was returning as was my positivity. I began to ooze positivity once more.

Met a Californian couple, who were raising awareness for Dewy’s dementia – their father had died from this last year.

“You’re nearly under the world record”

This was never about time or distance.

Through Melide, I started feeling rough again…just so tired. Decided to book somewhere just short of Pedrouzo, which would leave me 20km to do in the morning.

Passing through Ribadizo and Arzua, I was digging really deep. “It hurts so much. I’m just so tired”

Stopped for emergency food. Ice cream, pastry, chocolate, sweets and 2 cans of coke. The 5 main food groups!

I marched relentlessly on, and the kilometres slowly passed by. It felt so frustrating as today’s route was so runnable but my legs just wouldn’t allow it.

Eventually, I reached A Rua, where I had a room…with a bath!!! I had a very long cold bath followed by an even longer hot bath.

After dinner I felt very nauseous. Probably a combination of pain, exhaustion, dehydration and sunstroke…and anything else going.

Today was one of the hardest days in my ultrarunning/endurance memory, both physically and mentally. I probably managed to jog less than 2km – the rest was a forced march. But I asked for strength and I found it.

I fell asleep thinking of Santiago de Compostela. I will be both happy and sad to be finish.

Phrase of the day:
Relentless forward motion

Comment of the day:
Anything that stopped me thinking the pain!

Camino de Santiago - update after 11 days

So, 11 days on the Camino now. Another 64km/40miles or so today. Body/legs feeling it now - very sore and stiff calves, painful feet, nice blister on heel and another involving the whole of a toe!!!

Within striking distance of Santiago now. I've covered the best part of 700km in 11 days - just under 80km/50miles to go. Might have a crack at that tomorrow but given how my calves felt today, I'm not so sure that I can manage that kind of distance after 11 consecutive days covering between 55-72km daily. Plan to get up early and just see how it goes.

Truly an inspirational experience but painful now!!