Camino de Santiago Sunday 17th May: Day 5

Belorado - Hornillos del Camino
71.3km, total time on the way 10:50. Plus at least 2km wandering around Burgos, and including at least 1:30hrs in Burgos

Didn't sleep well!! Had really bizarre dreams probably due to eating a large bar of Milka just before bedtime. Decide to get up and after a good portion of jammy bread was ready to leave at 06:10.  

It was raining again this morning, necessitating full waterproofs. Strangely, sprinklers were still operating despite the rain. 

Saw some hermit caves - decided not to move in.

At every village, peregrinos emerged from their albergue, sleepy eyed but smiling. And the universal greeting of "Hola, buen Camino"

The way wound up through mist clad woodland. At the top was a memorial to the Spanish civil war.Then is was a lovely long run down to St Juan de Ortega. Briefly visited the dark, sparsely furnished church. A very grand building for such a small village. I watched as so many walked straight past this beautiful church 

Leaving St Juan, there was a young lady dressed as off she was on way to the gym - black lycra, pink headband. 

I heard cuckoos - so rarely heard in England now but so common in my childhood. 

Then it was onwards towards Burgos. Nearly left my poles at a comfort stop - remembered just in time and only had to backtrack a couple of minutes. 

Passed around Burgos airport, then followed a river into Burgos.

The old part of Burgos is beautiful. As the cathedral came into sight, I said out loud "Oh my God". Probably the most magnificent building I have ever seen. Creamy white, framed against cloudless blue skies, multiple magnificent towers and spires. Stunning. 

The interior was every bit as impressive and I enjoyed a lengthy wander around. Got a 'sello'/stamp for my pilgrim record. 

I had intended stopping at Burgos but it was only 14:00, the skies were now blue and it didn't seem right to stay in a big city. So on I went. 

I decided to ring ahead and book a bed at the albergue in Hornillos Del Camino as it a small village at the end of s stage in the guidebook. Good thing I did - the village was virtually full when I arrived at 1700.

Hornillos del Camino is a sleepy little village, population 20. The municipal hostel is on the main square right next to the church. 

Having checked in and showered, I sat outside in the sun writing my journal and drinking a can of beer that cost 1€ from the vending machine.

Nice dinner with an American brother and sister who kept on calling me sir, despite being well into their 60's, and an Irish lady. 

I watched a glorious sunset and still the birds sang. 

Back at the hostel, I finished off my journal and then it was time for bed. 

Phrase of the day: 

Carpe Diem - colourful, hand-painted sign seen on The Way. 

Comment of the day:

Overheard on the next table at dinner, whilst an American couple surveyed the menu. 

Wife: "What's the French for green?"

Husband: "Verde"

Wrong, and we're in Spain anyway.