This race popped up on my Facebook timeline on July 21st.
I innocently “liked” it.
"The Way of Legends is a six day, fully catered, ultra stage race...and consists of 5 successive stages longer than the legendary marathon distance of 42km followed by a final much shorter 6th stage along the historic pilgrimage path of Saint James to the finish line at the Cathedral of Burgos, a magnificent world heritage site. The Way of Legends is a fantastic oportunity to experience the natural beauty, culture, and gastronomy of this diverse region...The Way of Legends traverses this unique region with each stage crossing through a different landscape and engulfed by a unique Local Legend"
Burgos is one of the most beautiful towns of the Camino de Santiago, with the most stunning cathedral that I have ever seen. Jenny and I finished our camino there last year and spent a couple of days relaxing and sight-seeing and we re-started there this year; it holds many happy memories. Four 50km days, a marathon and a short 13km run finishing at the cathedral sounded like my kind of race. This is essentially how I train for the Spine – multiple long back-to-backs
A couple of days later, race director Manu Pastor messaged
me.
“Hello Richard, how are you? I see that you have
liked my Facebook page about the 6 day stage race which I organize in Spain.
After last year’s very successful first edition, registration is now open for
the second edition. This is a unique event in the North of Spain starting on
the 13th of October 2017 and traversing the historic region of Burgos. The
event is not only a really tough challenge but also a cultural and
gastronomical journey through this historic region passing by castles, many
ancient monuments and medieval villages and finishing after 254km +7000m in six
days on the Cathedral steps of the beautiful city of Burgos. Different to all
other stage races this one has nice comfortable camps with beds and hot showers
and plenty of delicious food cooked freshly everyday by my team of professional
chefs. The unique small/family nature of the event with only 36 places
available make it also a fantastic social event with very interesting people from
all over the world participating. I´m sure you will love this event. I hope you
will consider taking part. Cheers! Salud! Manu”
Hmmm…sounded good, but I wasn’t sure. After a few
week’s pondering it over, Jenny persuaded me to enter. She knew I needed a
break away and what better than running in a beautiful area near the wonderful
Camino. I entered in mid-August.
A week before the race, I was considering pulling out. Did I
really want to put my body and, more to the point, my mind, through it all again?
My knee and both groins have been getting gradually worse all year and I should
probably have rested more through the year. Jenny told me to treat it as a holiday
and not a race. As I departed Manchester airport on Friday morning, this was my
plan – a holiday, a chance to embrace all I love about ultrarunning.
No racing, oh no, not me…
I met Maik and Mundi from Switzerland at Madrid airport and
we caught the bus to Burgos together. Manu met us at the bus station in Burgos
and Luis drove us to Race HQ, a lovely Casa Rurale in Trashaedo del Tozo. Several
runners were already in situ and we were soon all chatting over lunch served by
our host, the wonderful Maria. Through the afternoon, more runners arrived and
it was obvious that many knew each other from previous stage races. I was
becoming aware of a completely different group of ultra-runners and soon was
hearing about many exotic sounding races…memory banks engaged!
I was rooming with Matt from LA for the first
couple of nights with Keith and Kaare opposite – much hilarity from all sides.
Matt and I got up early and went for a little walk
in the first rays of dawn.
The food was magnificent. I decided to embrace the
vegan options for the week. Not sure why, but it seemed like a good idea – so much
effort had gone into the preparation. Lunch in particular was fabulous. We all had our fill of soup, bread, salad and tortilla...and then the paella appeared...and then pudding. We weren't going to go hungry.
Sunday morning. Up at 5:30 for the 8:00 start. Rather alarmed by some boy-on-boy taping in the room opposite.
Muesli with oat milk (vegan!),
bread (vegan) with honey. Discussion on whether honey is vegan – apparently it
has bee ‘spit’ in it so some vegans won’t eat it. I decided to be a
honey-eating vegan!
Day 1: The legend of the lost city of Bravum
48km from the Celtic hill fort city
of Ulaña to the village of Sedano.
At the start line we were met by ancient Druids, their
ancient dialect translated by Manu using Google Translate. We were given poison
berries to take in event of capture.
We set of across a limestone plateau in the breaking dawn. I
felt very spritely as we negotiated our way down a technical descent, soon
becoming accustomed to the fabulous course marking – ribbon and purple biodegradable
paint.
Once on the flat, I set the pace in a totally non-racing
manner, with Keith and Maik in pursuit. We made good time to CP1 at 16km. I
pulled ahead on the first decent hill and then was overtaken by Peter
Osterwalder from Switzerland. Coming down to CP2, Vero silently drew level with
me. Possibly the quietest runner ever – so light on her feet. I powered up another decent hill and was
surprised to catch Peter on the descent. Going up again, I pulled ahead, and
cruised into CP3 in full non-racing, just-enjoying-it mode!! Or not…
The course was fabulous. All on trail through wonderful
countryside – limestones plateaus, canyons, ancient villages – just beautiful.
I was loving it
My knee and both groins were hurting and felt stiff. I just
hoped they would last the week.
I covered the final 9km nicely and was chuffed to bits to
win the first stage. Peter finished 3 minutes later, then Vero at 8 minutes,
followed by Keith and Maik.
Racing? Not me!?
Whoops!
I managed to have a cold bath in possibly the smallest bath
in the world, had a little lunch, and then we sat outside in the afternoon sun,
cheering the other runners in.
I was rooming with Matt again, and we got on really well.
I was in my element. Good Richard = Loud Richard = Happy Richard, was very much in residence. As Jenny describes it, I was being "Donkey"
Fabulous dinner
again as it would be all week.
Day 2: The legend of Rodrigo's treasure, the last Visigoth king
51km from the stunning noble village of Sedano to the medieval town of Poza De la Sal.
The slower 6 runners were
due to start at 08:00, with the remainder starting at 08:30. As became the
habit for the week, Matt, Keith, Kaare and myself were the first to rise, having
breakfast by 06:00. Unfortunately, Kaare had had to pull out of the race with a
bad knee, but was staying on for the week to be on the support team and he was
a worthy addition.
 |
| Synchronised running! |
I scampered over the riverside paths and was soon setting the pace again. I passed Matt, the fastest of the earlier starters, just after CP1 at 10 miles. So far so good.
Peter passed me shortly
afterwards with his by now familiar staccato running style and that was the
last I was to see of him til the finish.
Amazingly, knees and groins
were magically healed – perhaps the now shorter stride was beneficial. After
the cool start, it was definitely warming up – it was going to be hot. Today’s terrain
was even better than yesterday. We were high up with continual views of rock formations
and canyons.
The stretch between CP2 and CP3 was a long one. It was hot and I was feeling the pace. First Maik than Keith went past. Keith, in particular, looked on a mission and he was soon out of sight. I ate and drank and ate some more and got going again, overtaking Maik. Approaching CP3, I could see Keith still in residence. I moved quickly through but Keith had obviously spotted me too, and was soon out of sight again.
As we descended along the last few kilometres to the finish, we went past an old castle. I had to answer the call of nature annoying close to the finish!
Passing through a picturesque
village, I managed to get lost – as did several of the front runners.
Apparently the binmen had removed the tape marking the route!
I then sailed
past an obvious left turn with copious route markings and wasted a few minutes
back-tracking. I finally crossed the line in 3rd place, 30 minutes
behind Peter and 8 behind Keith. I was still in 2nd place, just 6
minutes ahead of Keith.
A tough day at the office
due to the heat. We were staying in a school building; bunk beds in a dorm.
Showered and changed, fed and watered, we cheered others in and enjoyed the autumn
sunshine
The camaraderie of the race
was very apparent. Runners and support team all one big family. The race had a
great feel, a great vibe.
As the route traversed up a long valley, I caught a glimpse of Peter and estimated him to be about 4 minutes ahead. Shortly later I caught a glimpse of Keith and Rob – I guessed they were 3-4 minutes back. I’d had a good section. Topping the valley, I began to feel weary. Onto the plateau, and there a significant headwind. This really sapped my energy and I felt my pace drop right off. After several kilometres of this, we started to drop down towards the finish at Atapuerca.
Another fun evening was had. The food was
fabulous and the company great.
Day 3: The legend of the fratricidal battle of Atapuerca in 1054 AD.
47.5km from the medieval
town of Poza de la Sal to the historic village of Olmos de Atapuerca
The days were settling into
a pattern now. Wake up,
breakfast, stretch, sort out kit, pack bags, get dressed, stretch some
more….RUN….shower, dress, eat, chat, watch, relax, stretch, eat, chat, relax,
stretch some more, chat, sleep etc.
After breakfast and having sorting
out all my gear, I put some music on just to focus the mind. The body was ready
to go; I just needed to summon the mental willingness to run 30 miles again. I
could feel myself welling up a bit so I gave myself a good talking to! I
decided to try out my newly-found yoga “skills” and miraculously I was able to
fully flex my knee for the first time in years.
It was an overcast morning with a
decent chance of some rain.
Right from the start, Peter
pushed ahead. We all let him go – he was obviously on a mission. Nary also
seemed to have abundant energy as she pushed hard. We were on some great
undulating trail; Nary, Keith and myself with Maik and Rob in close attendance.
Going through CP1, Keith and I were chatting away.
We then followed several kilometres of hard packed trail following the line of a disused railway, all gradually uphill. Keith stopped for a “comfort break”, I jogged on. I was really pleased to run the whole of the uphill section. I didn’t look round once, but was sure that I must have left any chasers behind. Turning off into a village and CP2, I glanced back and saw Keith and Maik 200 metres back! I went straight through the checkpoint, full of energy and full of running. I was now feeling great.
We then followed several kilometres of hard packed trail following the line of a disused railway, all gradually uphill. Keith stopped for a “comfort break”, I jogged on. I was really pleased to run the whole of the uphill section. I didn’t look round once, but was sure that I must have left any chasers behind. Turning off into a village and CP2, I glanced back and saw Keith and Maik 200 metres back! I went straight through the checkpoint, full of energy and full of running. I was now feeling great.
Passing through CP3, I hadn’t
seen another runner for several kilometres and was still feeling great; loving
the freedom, loving the race, loving the countryside and loving running.
As the route traversed up a long valley, I caught a glimpse of Peter and estimated him to be about 4 minutes ahead. Shortly later I caught a glimpse of Keith and Rob – I guessed they were 3-4 minutes back. I’d had a good section. Topping the valley, I began to feel weary. Onto the plateau, and there a significant headwind. This really sapped my energy and I felt my pace drop right off. After several kilometres of this, we started to drop down towards the finish at Atapuerca.
As usual, Manu’s mother and her
entourage were manning the final major road crossing. I could see Keith closing
rapidly and having safely negotiated the main road (and Manu’s mother!), I
paused to let Keith make up the final 100 metres. This was the nature of the
“race”. Although it was a race – yes, ok, I was racing – we were all very much
friends together, having a great time on a great event. Having pushed hard, we
decided to walk up the last hill into Atapuerca. Then we saw Rob, obviously
putting in a big effort…so we decided we ought to run into the finish. Keith
and I finished together with Rob a minute or so behind.
Another great day. And the
forecast rain hadn’t materialised.
The night’s accommodation was
fabulous – spread over 2 buildings. As usual, Maria directed the finishing
runners to their rooms. I was sharing again with Matt and also with Hiro who
had joined the party late. With 3 lots of dirty running kit, the room soon developed
a mature odour.
Day
4: The Legend of St Millan, the hermit warrior, patron saint of Castille
52.5km from the medieval battle fields of Atapuerca to
the mountain village of Pineda de la Sierra.
The weather was forecast to change today. From
mid-morning we could expect significant rain with a noticeable drop in
temperature. This coincided with us going over the high point of the week, San
Millan 2130m with an associated exposed ridge. I knew Manu was concerned about
the potential conditions and the risk to physical well-being. I had all the
right gear and am obviously used to cold, wet conditions. I was more concerned
about the effect of the rain on my mental well-being.
I was tired. I don’t think any of us slept well in our
cosy room. Physically I felt better than expected but I was missing my Jenny. I
hadn’t seen her for a couple of weeks as she was in Costa Rica with work and we
hadn’t spoken for a couple of days. After breakfast, we managed to have a chat.
I was feeling a bit emotional and Jenny told me to run with her in my heart.
That made me feel better. Also, we would initially be on the Camino, so that
was another reason for good spirits.
Setting off, Peter pushed on ahead. After 10-15
minutes we joined my beloved Camino de Santiago and I immediately felt happy.
We followed it backwards – in reverse direction, not running backwards! Keith
and I were running together again and I explained to him why I was saying “Buen
Camino” to everyone. We were moving a fair lick and I felt great. Through Ages,
where Jenny and I had a lovely evening last year, and on through St Juan de
Ortega, which I still have absolutely no idea how to pronounce. No time to
visit the lovely church as we pushed on.
Onto some fairly heavy-duty clay trail and it
started to rain. As it became steadier, I stopped to put my waterproof jacket on. I thought I’d quickly catch back
up with Keith but I just couldn’t seem to get going again. Soon Rob, Maik, and Vero
passed me. I began to get annoyed at the weather, at myself, and probably at some
other stuff as well. Approaching CP1, I was beginning to feel very miserable,
very low. To make matters worse, I’d sweated out my waterproof which was now
essentially functionless. At the CP I just wanted to stop.
I tried to
summon some enthusiasm from somewhere. I ate. I drank. Then I remembered that I
was running with Jenny in my heart…and that just made me sob. My spirit was draining.
The section to CP2 was simply horrendous – I had completely lost my focus and
lost my mojo. I was wet, cold and miserable.
Checkpoint 2
was at a bar. I went straight in without saying a word. Laura followed me in,
took one look at me and offered me a hug. Well, that opened the floodgates. I
was broken. I just wanted to stop. To sit down in the warm, dry bar. But I also
wanted to minimise my time loss. I was racing. I didn’t want anyone else to think
I was pathetic. I wanted to go. I wanted to stop. I didn't know what I wanted!
Up to know
happy, cheerful, bubbly Richard had been out to play. Now it was time for
miserable, weak, insecure Richard to make an overdue appearance. Quite what the
locals made of my mental disintegration I will never know.
“Let it go,
Richard”
So I did…
after 20 minutes of self-berating.
I had a
coffee and some tortilla – which caused much consternation as it most certainly
wasn’t vegan ham and cheese.
The chocolate muffin probably wasn’t vegan either!
Runners came and went. I dried out, warmed up and put more layers on. Further
psychotherapy from Laura and Ana.
After 45
minutes, and several false starts, and in heavy rain, I set off on the 10km
uphill section to the summit ridge.
I now had energy and I monstered the hill. Arriving at CP3, I no longer cared about time or postion, and had another 15 minutes in the warmth.
The next
section was an exposed 5km ridge. It was very windy and the temperature had
noticeably dropped. I was now in my element, almost on home turf. I skipped
along the ridge in no time. Many found this the worst part of the day; I’d
already been there and this was my favourite bit. On the long run down to the
finish, I passed Nary who looked very cold.
Into the
village and the finish. Relief. Just relief.
I was now in 5th place overall, having been overtaken by Keith, Rob and Vero. I didn't really care.
If I’d had a
tough day, others had it far worse. Jasmine and Hiro didn’t arrive until 20:00 having
been helped off the mountain by Ana amongst others. They were very wet and very
cold. Hiro, in particular, was verging on hypothermic. Respect.
The weather was forecast to change today. From mid-morning we could expect significant rain with a noticeable drop in temperature. This coincided with us going over the high point of the week, San Millan 2130m with an associated exposed ridge. I knew Manu was concerned about the potential conditions and the risk to physical well-being. I had all the right gear and am obviously used to cold, wet conditions. I was more concerned about the effect of the rain on my mental well-being.
The chocolate muffin probably wasn’t vegan either! Runners came and went. I dried out, warmed up and put more layers on. Further psychotherapy from Laura and Ana.
I now had energy and I monstered the hill. Arriving at CP3, I no longer cared about time or postion, and had another 15 minutes in the warmth.
The next section was an exposed 5km ridge. It was very windy and the temperature had noticeably dropped. I was now in my element, almost on home turf. I skipped along the ridge in no time. Many found this the worst part of the day; I’d already been there and this was my favourite bit. On the long run down to the finish, I passed Nary who looked very cold.
Into the village and the finish. Relief. Just relief.
I was now in 5th place overall, having been overtaken by Keith, Rob and Vero. I didn't really care.
If I’d had a tough day, others had it far worse. Jasmine and Hiro didn’t arrive until 20:00 having been helped off the mountain by Ana amongst others. They were very wet and very cold. Hiro, in particular, was verging on hypothermic. Respect.
Day 5: The Legend of “El Cid”, the mercenary knight and epic hero
42km from the mountain village of Pineda de la Sierra to
the Monastery of San Pedro Cardeña.
Just a marathon today!
Woke up feeling very tired; very weary. Yesterday had
taken a lot out of me physically and especially mentally. At least all my kit
was dry again. Everyone seemed pretty tired too. I still felt a bit wobbly as
we prepared for the off. Laura gave me a pep talk and a sticky heart – I think
several of us were wearing these today!
As we started I had absolutely no intention of racing at
all. I intended to take it easily and just enjoy the run. I managed the first
part, but the second bit was an abject failure.
I started at the back
and ran on my own for a few minutes. Miraculously, we were greeted with a
beautiful morning and could actually see the mountain we’d been on the day before.
As I got into my running, I overtook several runners before running with Mundi for a while. At some stage I was up to 5th place but then it clouded up and this seemed to completely drain me. Several others quickly overtook me. Coming into CP1, I had the feeling this was going to be a long day.
I now felt very flat – no energy, no drive.
I kept on hearing strange sounds coming from the woods behind me and kept on turning round to see what it was. All I could see was Nary a little way back. I stopped to ask her whether she could hear anything. She said it was her! She was chatting and singing to herself for motivation – she was having a tough day too. I ran with Nary for a while as she continued to chatter away. However, I slowed to a walk and left her to her singing!
For the next 10km, Sander and I played leap frog. I would run for a bit and overtake him. I would walk for a bit and he would overtake me. I was feeling miserable and I wasn’t having fun. My legs didn’t want to run. They felt tight and stiff. It was a war of attrition but I was going to win.
At CP 2,
Sander had his customary beer. Anyone who can run an entire multi-day ultra in
sandals and drink beer en route gets my respect.
Just after
CP2 the sun came out again and seemed to give me energy. I finally got running
properly. Coming down to CP3, I decided I needed sugar. As I entered the bar I was
met by a beautiful sight…
Happiness is…
Now happy
with my lot, I jogged along admiring the countryside, counting the kilometres
down. The last few were painful and I was very happy to get to the finish at the
beautiful Monastery of San Pedro Cardeña.
I finished
in 5:15, probably my slowest marathon ever but I didn’t really care. I had finished
and there was just tomorrow’s 13km “fun run” to go.
The
monastery was fabulous. We were staying in single rooms and a monk gave us a
guided tour. However the highlight was the individual cleansing that we all
received from Oscar, the shaman. A lovely man and a very moving experience.
We had a
lively evening. With the racing done, we sampled the copious supplies of
beer and wine.
Just a
non-competitive 13km jog into Burgos left.
Non-competitive...
Day 6: The legendary Camino de Santiago
We started off nice and easily, chatting away. After 2 very tough days at the office, I felt surprisingly spritely. I had changed into Hoka’s and I felt so much more comfortable…if only I’d worn them the day before…
As I crossed the line, I felt the disappointment of the previous 2 days disappear. I had left a lot out there and it felt so good to finish on a high.
It took several minutes for me to get my breath back.
After the photoshoot on the cathedral steps, it was back
to the hotel, followed by a fabulous afternoon with good friends in beautiful
Burgos. Tapas, beer, ice cream and a bit more beer.
The evening’s dinner and presentation was a great way to
crown off the event. I felt so proud as I received my finishers shirt the
medal.
Non-competitive...
Day 6: The legendary Camino de Santiago
13km from the Cistercian Monastery of San Pedro Cardeña
to the World heritage site of the Burgos Cathedral.
There was a noticeably cheerful and relaxed air around
the start. Just a relaxed jog into Burgos and the finish line. Many of the
support staff were running with us today.
 |
Lily going through her pre-race preparations! |
We started off nice and easily, chatting away. After 2 very tough days at the office, I felt surprisingly spritely. I had changed into Hoka’s and I felt so much more comfortable…if only I’d worn them the day before…
Max started to inject a little pace, and after a bit of
to and fro-ing, I joined Max, Peter, and Stephan in a little group at the
front. Stephan and Peter picked up the pace a little and Max dropped back. With
5km to go, we were most definitely racing…in a non-competitive way! I committed
myself mentally. This was going to be purely for me. A kind of redemption,
proof to myself that I wasn’t weak, that I could indeed still do it. I
gradually cranked up the pace as I do in my tempo training runs. It felt great
to be really stretching out. With about 500m to go, I heard Peter’s breathing
and footsteps fall a few metres back. As we turned towards the final bridge, I
thought I was going to be sick; I was pretty much on the limit.
As I crossed the line, I felt the disappointment of the previous 2 days disappear. I had left a lot out there and it felt so good to finish on a high.
It took several minutes for me to get my breath back.
There was great camaraderie at the finish line. We had all gone through a wonderful journey, full of highs with a few lows thrown in for good measure.
 |
| Lily does her post race stretching with Nora |
 |
| There's always one! |
 |
| If you leave you phone unattended... |
The medal, a bespoke design by Oscar, represents a helmet
and therefore a legend, but when turned upside down represents the phoenix and
rebirth. Rising from the ashes…it felt very pertinent.
After dinner, we retired to the local bars. For some
reason, I found myself drinking very large gin and tonics. After several of
these I developed the ability to dance like a professional well, that’s how I
remember it!
Sander and I then sought out a kebab (we’re athletes
don’t you know) and at 04:45 we rocked back at the hotel.
There were a few sore heads at breakfast!
I had a simply wonderful week. I rediscovered my love of
ultra-running but more than anything I rediscovered the lost art of having fun.
All I can say is thank you so much to Manu and to every
single one of his merry bunch of helpers.
I am so glad I liked that
Facebook page.
I am so glad Manu messaged me.
Aftermath
After 10 days rest, I went for a
couple of short runs, and my groin/hip finally decided it had had enough. I now
haven’t run at all for approaching 5 weeks, and am unlikely to do so before
Christmas at best. There has been minimal improvement. Right now, I am feeling fairly
pessimistic about my running future as I watch my fitness disappear and my
belly appear.
But…if that happens to be my last
ultra or my last competitive ultra, then what a race to finish on
Life should not be a journey to the grave
with the intention of arriving safely, in a pretty and well-preserved body, but
rather to skid in broadside in a cloud of smoke, thoroughly used up, totally
worn out, and loudly proclaiming “Wow! What a ride”
Hunter S Thompson
